Ecuador, from the middle of the world
A small country on the equator with four different worlds inside it: Pacific coast, Andean highlands, Amazon rainforest and the Galápagos. Each has its own food. This is a guide to tasting it in the UK, cooking it at home and, one day, going.
The Coast
La Costa
Prawn ceviche, green plantain in every form, and coconut-rich fish stews from the Pacific shore.
Explore the CoastThe Andes
La Sierra
Slow-roast pork, potato soups thickened with cheese, and a spiced purple drink made once a year.
Explore the AndesThe Amazon
El Oriente
River fish steamed in leaves, yuca, palm hearts and fruits most of Britain has never heard of.
Explore the AmazonThe Galápagos
Las Islas
The islands Darwin made famous, where the food is the coast’s seafood with an island’s patience.
Plan the GalápagosStart with the Andes
- HornadoWhole roast pork marinated in garlic, cumin and orange. The Sunday centrepiece of the highlands.
- Locro de papaPotato soup made rich with milk and melting cheese, finished with avocado.
- LlapingachosCheese-stuffed potato cakes coloured with achiote and served with peanut sauce.
- Colada moradaThe thick, spiced purple-corn drink made for the Day of the Dead on 2 November.
Then the Coast
Cook it in the UK
Plantain is in most supermarkets. Mote, achiote and purple corn take a little more finding. Here is where to get each one, and what to use instead.
Eat it in the UK
London has a small, loyal cluster of Ecuadorian kitchens, mostly in Elephant and Castle and north London.
Isn’t it just Peruvian food?
No, and the ceviche is the quickest way to see why. In Peru it is raw fish cured in lime. In Ecuador it is usually prawns in a bright, soupy citrus and tomato broth, eaten with toasted corn and plantain crisps. Ecuadorian and Peruvian ceviche compared.